Archive for June, 2006

Why Croatia?

Thursday, June 29th, 2006

To declare that the vastness of the Dalmatian topography inflames the heart and rouses the spirit is to vastly understate the actuality of its magnificence. This is but one view of the Pelješac Canal from the road to Nakovana. The clipper you see anchored at Korčula was rumored in Viganj ...

The Pig on Death Row

Friday, June 16th, 2006

I'm in one of the villages outside Zagreb writing, cooking and recharging my soul to the sound of chickensong and cherries ripening. On a few occasions, I've smelled strange burning aromas and searched the house for flames. Silly me. It was the neighbors every time. People cook, distill and ...

A Surprise Singing Lesson

Saturday, June 10th, 2006

There's a brand sparkling new public toilet facility between Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića and Vlaška Ulica, but I had little chance of making it there in time to file my paperwork, so I ducked into a cafe, politely ordered a kava, and promptly aimed myself at the water closet. When I ...

They Did All of the Talking

Wednesday, June 7th, 2006

  "Say 'sir'!" I was invited to speak to a group of young English students at the Croatian-American Institute in Zagreb last week. This was much more than a mere cultural exchange; there was Rubelj's brick-oven pizza being offered. I eagerly accepted.     The idea was for me to talk a bit about my ...

Burek at Pekara Arta

Monday, June 5th, 2006

Freshly baked breads and sweets are everywhere in Croatia. One can scarcely propel oneself 500 meters without seeing a pekara or pekarnica ('bakery' and 'bake shop' respectively), and while I was in the Maksimir area of town waiting for a friend to finish work, I did some work of my ...