Fife Rings Bell
September 20, 2006 – 6:23 pmIf you’re standing in front of this Hajduk Split fan club mural on Split’s Riva, turn 140 degrees to your right and walk about 75 meters.
Ask any of the locals. Buffet Fife (boo-fay FEE-fay) is the place to eat in Split. Fresh, organic ingredients are prepared simply and traditionally, and the prices can’t be beat. For these reasons and others, Fife is a unanimous favorite with families and senior Dalmatians in Split. The older gentleman below arrived for an early supper a few moments after me. I think he’d just risen from his afternoon nap.
Sleepy kitty! But what, in the name of all that is holy, is smoothhound, you ask? Don’t call PETA yet. Smoothhound is not dog flesh at all, but that of shark. A funny thing happened during the menu’s translation to English, apparently. The Croatian word for shark is morski pas, and it translates literally to sea dog. I suppose that since shark skin has a smooth appearance, referring to these dogs o’ the deep as “smooth hounds” is understandable (and fairly smooth in and of itself). In any case, if you enjoy shark, you shouldn’t be afraid to order smoothhound in Croatia. Additionally, red mullets do not contain hair.
We ordered a small portion of fried squid, mixed pan-fried fish, grilled vegetables and potatoes. Though Fife was doing a brisk business that day, the food arrived swiftly and without a hitch. A soft breeze blew in, rattling the palms lightly and bringing whiffs of the rosemary and lavender planted along the promenade. The sounds of a busy Dalmatian harbor in late afternoon was all the music needed to perfect this simple, wholesome repast.
Unfortunately, Fife was fresh out of walnut crepes that day(?!), but the chocolate ones surpassed my expectations.
Buffet Fife is located at Trumbićeva obala 11 on Riva in Split, Croatia. Dress is ultra-casual, portions are generous, prices are reasonable, and reservations are hardly required. Indoor and outdoor seating is available. The short list of Croatian wines is a more than adequate representation.
One Response to “Fife Rings Bell”
that place looks great! I will have to check it out next time I am in split. I came across your blog a few months ago, and i am really liking it. especially the close ups of food! what are you doing in croatia, anyway?? If you are still in Split, i would also suggest nostromo, which is an awesome sea food place right by the fish market. reading this brings back fond memories of this summer.
By ana on Sep 28, 2006