The Grape Whisperer
March 2, 2007 – 6:55 am
The tradition of winemaking in Croatia dates back to the 5th century B.C., and a few of the republic’s best vintners are now going to some effort to refine and adapt the knowledge and experience passed down to them through the generations. Ancient techniques of viticulture are still followed, but they’re also commingling with daring innovations and a greater awareness of what other nations offer oenophiles. Between tradition and invention, a growing number of truly great Croatian wines are being produced. Nowhere is the competition to bottle the best more heated than in the sunny, coastal regions of Istria and Dalmatia. With the world again paying closer attention to that coastline as a holiday destination, it’s an exciting time to be a winemaker there. Smallscale agricultural and exporting endeavors still face a number of frustrating challenges, but a few outstanding vintages are currently available internationally. One of these is the Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru, far removed from the oxidized swill occasionally foisted on unwitting tourists by unscrupulous independent hoteliers.
One of the things I enjoy about Croatia’s better reds is exemplified in Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru: You can taste the grape. Produced on the isle of Hvar from hand-selected Plavac Mali grapes by vinological genius Zlatko Plenković, it’s a dry red of distinctive character. Many ambitious dry reds strive for a sort of Cabernet or Merlot austerity that typically translates to a flat, over-oaked mouthfeel, but Plenković’s crème de la crème manages respectability from behind unpretentious complexity and lively chararacter. The high alcohol content effortlessly conducts even the denser, earthier aspects of the rich extract in the bouquet. Some suggest decanting Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru for at least 30 minutes, but it’s a wine that evolves rapidly and dramatically once it leaves the bottle. I’d hate to miss the first and second acts of the performance just to applaud the grandiose finale.
Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru is lusciously velvety in body, and the oak that does come through is buoyed on pronounced, ethereal fruitiness. After ten minutes in the glass, the oak softens, revealing more peat and damp earth as balance against the residual sugars. Jammy berry tones give way gradually to apple, then a fleeting glimpse of pomegranate. There is delicately pronounced tannin on the finish that comes as an even compliment rather than turbulent shock.
‘Complex’ is an aptly succint modifier for the Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru, but it manages this without being challenging or overbearing. It’s a beautiful wine that stands out from its peers in Croatia as mildly whimsical, just like the artist’s soul of its maker. Balanced. Elegant. Vivacious. Sophisticated. And, most of all, elusive. It’s a wine that teases with fleeting flavors as much as it delights, and well worth tracking down for your cellar. One could probably make a rewarding lifelong hobby out of tasting this wine as it ages. A minimum aging of three years from the date of bottling is suggested, but with alcohol hovering near 14%, it’s eligible for aging indefinitely.
In Zagreb, Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru is available from Vinoteka Bornstein at Kaptol 19 in Gornji Grad, just a brief stroll north of the cathedral. You can also retail-order it online from Wine Gallery or K&L Wine Merchants. Restaurateurs and shop owners can add this and other Plenković wines to their lists by contacting USA Wine Imports.