Articles of Mastication

Rižot = Risotto

In addition to the Adriatic Sea, coastal Croatia shares centuries of history with Italy. That said, it won’t be surprising to learn that Arborio rice is prepared and enjoyed in much the same way as Italian risotto in Dalmatia. In fact, a few recipes are practically identical. One of the hallmarks of Dalmatian cuisine is crni rižot (TSIR-nee REE-zhot), or ‘black risotto’. Known in Italy as Risotto Nero di Sepie, traditional black risotto calls for the meat and ink of the cuttlefish, the latter of which lends the characteristic black color and silken texture to the broth.

Gule and Ivica decided to have a little party one Sunday afternoon last summer. They prepared a delicious risotto with chicken and langoustines in the courtyard behind the kiosk while we all enjoyed our neighbors’ company with music and a few beers. The recipe was Ivica’s but Gule did most of the work. Once the steaming heap of PERFECT risotto was ready and placed lovingly in the alley, Jakov set up a “DJ booth” on his balcony and played classic American pop and soul 45’s from the only record player in the village. Neighbors who crept out of their houses into the alley to see what was happening were answered with a plate of risotto, a beer and a lot of smiles. Ivica reveals the ingredients for his risotto in this video from the happening:

Perhaps the strangest part of the event is that there’s nothing strange about it at all in Marina or other places like it in Dalmatia. Life is simple and companionship is a simple matter of stepping outside your door. People are known to spontaneously gather in random locations to enjoy food, drink and music together, whether it’s in a courtyard, on the beach or in the street. And were it not for the phonograph, it would not have been unheard of for the men to burst into song. Spontaneous public conviviality is but one of Dalmatia’s countless charms, and one of many reasons you should consider making a visit.

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