Archive for the ‘Croatia’ Category

Bambus in Tkalčićeva

Saturday, February 3rd, 2007

There might not be a better way to spend a night in Zagreb than by sitting in one of the many cafes of Tkalčićeva Ulica with a glass of bambus, lazily watching the beautiful people of Croatia's capital city stroll by. But what is "bambus", you ask? I'll get to ...

Bakalar at Zagreb’s Bistro Lampion

Wednesday, January 10th, 2007

It was a tongue-twister of a lunch on a drizzly late-spring afternoon in Remiza, a working-class neighborhood of Zagreb with winding alleys and hidden back roads. Josip and I had originally planned to leave on that day for Kućište with his brother-in-law Anton to begin ...

A Recollection of Istria

Wednesday, December 27th, 2006

Heading from Zagreb to the Istrian peninsula is a bit like bidding farewell to a tipsy uncle at a boisterous family gathering as you retreat to the peace of a rustic cottage in a cool, quiet forest. I’d arrived in Croatia’s easygoing capital a few days earlier on my first ...

Steamed Hams

Sunday, December 10th, 2006

Recognize this routine? Principal Skinner invites Superintendent Chalmers over for dinner, and the wacky hijinks ensue. While in beautiful Zagreb, my Simpsons yen was kept in check with episodes dubbed in German on RTL. My inability to comprehend German didn't detract in the least from my enjoyment of the program, ...

Can? Not!

Saturday, October 28th, 2006

Anchovies have always been one of my favorite snacks. Before I visited the Adriatic coast, you could often find me huddled over a can of salted anchovies in oil, slurping up the lubricious filets like a terrestrial dolphin with thumbs. The ancient method of salt-curing fish is still employed in ...

Great Neck

Thursday, October 19th, 2006

Whether grilling, roasting, curing or smoking, Croatians have incredible skills when it comes to preparing meat. I am consistently amazed by what appears to be a near-magical ability to make the flesh of one animal taste like that of another. My friend Kornelija’s mother makes a transcendent braised ...

Totally Tubular

Wednesday, October 18th, 2006

I'd be a real jerk for not introducing my friends in America to the exquisitely simple pleasures of Dalmatian cuisine, and my recent visit to Brooklyn gave me an opportunity to do just that. I walked with Mike and Karen to the farmer's market in Prospect Heights where, luckily, there ...

On Sausage Pond

Saturday, September 23rd, 2006

Plant yourself at a table under a canopy of giant umbrellas in Zagreb's Cvjetni Trg on a cool, sunny Saturday afternoon and you'll understand why sitting and drinking coffee for hours is the national pastime in Croatia. The coffee is strong, the conversation is light and the people are beautiful. ...

Fife Rings Bell

Wednesday, September 20th, 2006

If you're standing in front of this Hajduk Split fan club mural on Split's Riva, turn 140 degrees to your right and walk about 75 meters. Ask any of the locals. Buffet Fife (boo-fay FEE-fay) is the place to eat in Split. Fresh, organic ingredients are prepared simply and traditionally, ...

The Garlic Lady of Split

Saturday, September 2nd, 2006

You will find her at the market in Split, and you will know her by the radiant glow of rosy good health that can come only from a diet rich in garlic. She visited me in a pungent dream last night, rattling at the air with aromatic plaits of garlic ...