Archive for the ‘Croatia’ Category

Krumpira! Luka!

Friday, August 25th, 2006

On certain days there are men who walk the streets of Zagreb bellowing "Krumpira!" at the top of their lungs. They are potato hucksters, and some of them offer onions to boot ("Krumpira! Luka!"). If two of them cross paths in the same territory, the resultant vociferation reminds one of ...

The First Tamales in Croatia?

Saturday, July 22nd, 2006

I was given fresh corn, cornmeal, ground veal, onion, tomato, some Emmenthaler cheese and 45 minutes. No cumin, cilantro or limes. I'd prepared some Louisiana-style hot sauce from feferoni the previous day, so the heat was in place. In lieu of fresh salsa or a rich mole (no time), ...

Corn On The Brain

Sunday, July 16th, 2006

Just call me Colonel Cornelius Cobb. I've got corn on the brain, and I've got it bad. Summer makes me silly for corn. I went running and flailing naked through this corn field near Jastrebarsko a few weeks ago so I could feel the tassles a-tickling and get myself stinky ...

Kicking Dalmatian Sunset

Tuesday, July 11th, 2006

Another murderous jaunt to Croatia's coast has yielded fresh battle wounds, tan lines and hundreds of new photos. I netted this one on the beach in front of Buže and Veronika's caffe bar in Sumpetar, just 12 kilometers from Split.

These Arms Of Mine

Sunday, July 9th, 2006

He looks as if he’s in a hurry to get somewhere, doesn’t he? I can tell you with all certainty that he’s not going anywhere, but I myself need to be on the docks early and will make a brief visit to Sleepy Towne soon. Allow me to point something ...

Tourists Late, Crops On Schedule in Dalmatia

Tuesday, July 4th, 2006

The tourist season may be off to a late start in Dalmatia this year, but the growing season is already in full swing on the Pelješac Peninsula. These grapes are soaking up sixteen hours of intense sunlight daily, preparing to be VERY strong white wine. Here beneath the fearsome Sveti Ilija, ...

Why Croatia?

Thursday, June 29th, 2006

To declare that the vastness of the Dalmatian topography inflames the heart and rouses the spirit is to vastly understate the actuality of its magnificence. This is but one view of the Pelješac Canal from the road to Nakovana. The clipper you see anchored at Korčula was rumored in Viganj ...

The Pig on Death Row

Friday, June 16th, 2006

I'm in one of the villages outside Zagreb writing, cooking and recharging my soul to the sound of chickensong and cherries ripening. On a few occasions, I've smelled strange burning aromas and searched the house for flames. Silly me. It was the neighbors every time. People cook, distill and ...

More from Zagreb’s Fish Market

Saturday, June 10th, 2006

Well, the fish (and the blog posts) don't get much fresher. I was just at the Ribarnica 15 minutes ago for the weekend protein and chanced upon this lovely lady axing a live šaran a question. She's fresh, and I like it. Speaking of money shots, these pretty boys had a ...

A Surprise Singing Lesson

Saturday, June 10th, 2006

There's a brand sparkling new public toilet facility between Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića and Vlaška Ulica, but I had little chance of making it there in time to file my paperwork, so I ducked into a cafe, politely ordered a kava, and promptly aimed myself at the water closet. When I ...