Archive for the ‘Croatia’ Category

A Surprise Singing Lesson

Saturday, June 10th, 2006

There's a brand sparkling new public toilet facility between Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića and Vlaška Ulica, but I had little chance of making it there in time to file my paperwork, so I ducked into a cafe, politely ordered a kava, and promptly aimed myself at the water closet. When I ...

They Did All of the Talking

Wednesday, June 7th, 2006

  "Say 'sir'!" I was invited to speak to a group of young English students at the Croatian-American Institute in Zagreb last week. This was much more than a mere cultural exchange; there was Rubelj's brick-oven pizza being offered. I eagerly accepted.     The idea was for me to talk a bit about my ...

Dolac: The Farmer’s Market in Zagreb

Tuesday, June 6th, 2006

I come from a family of produce hucksters, so I love open-air farmers' markets. The sights, sounds and smells always remind me of visiting Soulard Market or Produce Row in St. Louis with my Gammy as a wee spud. Zagreb's farmers' market is pretty incredible. The marketplaces I've seen in Croatia's ...

Burek at Pekara Arta

Monday, June 5th, 2006

Freshly baked breads and sweets are everywhere in Croatia. One can scarcely propel oneself 500 meters without seeing a pekara or pekarnica ('bakery' and 'bake shop' respectively), and while I was in the Maksimir area of town waiting for a friend to finish work, I did some work of my ...

A Barbecue in the Country

Saturday, May 27th, 2006

As much as I've enjoyed my time in Zagreb before the jaunt to Pelješac, a little time in the country was just what the doctor ordered. So I went with my dear friend Kornelija to her hometown of Zdenčina. The expedition from Zagreb's main rail station was a pleasant thirty ...

The First Fried Pork Rinds in Croatia?

Friday, May 26th, 2006

This is Croatian bacon. It is known as panceta in Dalmatia, but the northern continentals refer to it as špek, the Croatized version of the German word for bacon. It's really just ordinary cured, smoked pork belly, but most of the bacon in Croatia is drier and more dense than ...

Ćevapčići at BK Sava

Thursday, May 25th, 2006

I am told that the best ćevapčići in all of Zagreb are served at a place called BK Sava next to a soccer field, only about a hundred meters from the banks of the Sava River. I went to Sava to see if it was true. I was fond of ćevapčići ...

Buffet Upstairs, Band in the Basement

Thursday, May 18th, 2006

After ice cream from Vincek, I walked with Kornelija to her hiking club’s weekly meeting. It was held on the second floor of a multi-purpose building near Glavni Kolodvor that operates as a sort of community center with two independently owned cafes on the first floor. There was some work ...

The Best Ice Cream in Zagreb

Thursday, May 18th, 2006

My friends in Zagreb have been very good to me, treating me to the best of everything this incredible city has to offer. After the Festival Starih Zanata at Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića, I went for an ice cream with Kornelija - but not just any ice cream. We walked a ...

Lamb Roast In Grabovac

Friday, April 28th, 2006

Being in Croatia is doing wonders for my Croatian. Speaking the language is definitely coming more naturally, and I'm acquiring new vocabulary every day. The finer points of grammatical structure are another beast entirely, but Croatian grammar is a beast indeed to this native English speaker, even after eight years ...